1 oz (30 g) dried porcini mushrooms 1 1 / 2 cups (360 ml) boiling water (for soaking porcini) 4 cups (960 ml) low-sodium beef or mushroom stock 1 tbsp (15 ml) olive oil 1 small leek, white part only, thinly sliced 1 small celery stalk, thinly sliced 1 small carrot, thinly sliced 2 garlic cloves, smashed 4 juniper berries, lightly crushed 6 whole black peppercorns 2 sprigs fresh thyme 1 bay leaf 2 tbsp (30 ml) dry sherry or Madeira 6 oz / 170 g cremini or mixed wild mushrooms, thinly sliced 1 tbsp (14 g) unsalted butter 1 tsp finely grated lemon zest, plus more to taste 2 tbsp (6 g) finely chopped chives Kosher salt, to taste
Place dried porcini in a heatproof bowl and cover with the boiling water. Soak 20 minutes. Strain through a fine sieve or coffee filter to remove grit, reserving the soaking liquid. Rinse the porcini briefly to remove any remaining grit, then chop. In a medium pot, warm the olive oil over medium heat. Add leek, celery, carrot, and smashed garlic; cook, stirring, until softened but not browned, 5–6 minutes. Add the stock, reserved porcini soaking liquid (leaving any sediment behind), chopped porcini, juniper berries, peppercorns, thyme, and bay leaf. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook uncovered for 25–30 minutes. While the broth simmers, sauté the sliced cremini in the butter over medium-high heat until deeply browned and their moisture evaporates, 6–8 minutes. Season lightly with salt and set aside. Strain the broth through a fine-mesh sieve, pressing lightly on solids; discard solids. Return clear broth to the pot. Stir in the dry sherry or Madeira and simmer 2 minutes to mellow the alcohol. Season to taste with salt and a pinch of lemon zest (add more to taste for brightness). To serve, divide the sautéed mushrooms among warm bowls. Ladle the hot broth over, then finish with chopped chives and a final whisper of lemon zest.
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